Blog - Page 6 of 9 - Working 2 Live, Living 2 Travel

Going off the rails on a crazy train: Train travel in China

Our first Chinese train ride experience was a G (fast train) to the northern beach town of Qingdao (a side note, we found the town disappointing. Billed as one of the cleanest beach towns in China, we found it to be dirty compared to European and American equivalents, and we never spotted the famous facekini. In fact, the only woman in a swimsuit over the three days we visited was still wearing jean shorts). The town was built largely by the Germans prior to World War I when the Japanese took over for their first of two stints.

During the ride there, we learned that most Chinese train passengers don’t feel a need to wear headphones while entertaining themselves. Our train car in a second class passenger seat was, therefore, like sitting down in a Best Buy showroom for five to six hours at 308 km/hour with a surrounding cacophonous of murderous Japanese schoolgirls screaming, stolid American Army generals yelling and tortured Spanish teens begging under an overhead repeat every two hours of a dubbed-Chinese Roman Holiday starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn.

We found our next ride, a first class ride on a similar train to Beijing, to be a bit more relaxing with plusher seats and a mostly quieter car. However, our Chinese National Holiday travels would soon introduce us to the full gamut of Chinese train riding experiences as many options sellout seconds after being introduced to hundreds of millions of Chinese travelers.

Catching a few zzz during train travel in China

Our next train ride was an overnight ride on what is known in China as a “soft sleeper.” This is basically equivalent to a first class sleeping car. Four beds are enclosed in each room with doors that shut and allow for privacy, assuming you know the other three people. Otherwise, it’s a bit like hostel accommodations. The beds were more comfortable, lent more space than Navy sailors are given, and serve their purpose for getting a night’s sleep en route to your next destination.

On another overnight train ride, we downgraded slightly to a “hard sleeper” or second class sleeping car. These cars have six beds to a room, offering less privacy and luggage storage capacity without a closing door. We had read horror stories of seemingly privileged middle to upper class Chinese travelers smoking at the end of your bed or sitting on your bed while you attempted to rest, but we did not experience any unpleasantness.

Beware the hard seats

Our final holiday train ride was one that we wished we could have avoided. With our holiday concluding and time for me to return to work, no sleeper cars were available for the final few days. Our agent told us that they sold out in 20 seconds or less. Therefore, we were forced to endure a “hard seat,” basically a second class seat on a lower tier train with no letter preceding the train number. This wasn’t the second class that we experienced en route to Qingdao on a G train. This was basically a bench draped with a blue cloth in rows of three people facing other rows of three people with a small table in between to heap your trash upon while enduring a slow meandering train for 20 hours on a crowded, sometimes cold, sometimes hot, car that apparently also sells standing-room only tickets. With the train car packed to capacity, a food cart still found its way through the aisle every ten minutes for most of the ride as standing-room passengers folded up their small chairs and compressed toward our benches. Our advice: do whatever you have to do to avoid “hard seats!”

The bathroom on the trains are generally a Turkish style hole found in a room at the upper corner of each car, which helps naturally fertilize the crops in passing farms as you travel. If you’ve just arrived in China and fear food indigestion, maybe flying is a better option.

Purchasing train travel in China

We often utilize DIYTravel, a travel agency of an Australian couple experienced in the Chinese transportation industry. For 10 Australian dollars, they can customize your trip and advise you based on the idiosyncrasies of Chinese transportation. For example, when we wanted to go from the small town of Pingyao to Xi’an, knowing that tickets would be very limited and sold out on that route, they advised us to purchase a sleeper ticket on to another city, a much easier ticket to procure for a few extra dollars. They also include Chinese translations to hand over to taxi drivers, ticket distributors and train conductors for each situation you will likely face. They also accept Paypal, allowing you to use your Western credit card. Don’t expect to use it often in China.

Whenever purchasing tickets, pay attention to the train number and particularly to the preceding letter. From our experiences, the G is best. As you downgrade, you may not have individual outlets, elbow room or air conditioning. However, having no individual outlets will at times lead to a quieter environment as your fellow passengers’ electronics will die sooner. Unfortunately, with extended battery life devices continuing to hit the market, that advantage will soon be eliminated, adding to the potential hell of a Chinese train ride.

Basic Guide to Train Numbers when Booking

C = intercity, very limited routes

D = over 200 km/hr, runs main routes

G = fast train, high quality, 308 km/hr along most sections of track

K = “fast train,” lower quality and not as fast as the G, 120 km/hr

L = temporary substitute train, no set schedule, subject to delays and availability

T = “express train,” usually only stopping in major cities, 120 km/hr

No letter = slower trains with many stops and crowds, if the first number is 5 or higher, it probably doesn’t have air conditioning

Several friends have told us detailed stories about traveling amongst pigs and other animals in Korea. On our most crowded train rides, we haven’t yet experienced anything close to this. What’s your “most interesting” travel experience?

-Chris

WorkLife Travel Destination: Louisville

Home to the Kentucky Derby and baseball bats, Louisville, Ky., was my first adult home outside of Georgia. It’s a mix of old money and new riches, traditional charm and contemporary tastes, and classic design and modern appeal. And, if you want to say it like a local, say it with me now – Loo-uh-vul.

Favorite Louisville Places

Bardstown Road

A stretch of road lies in this Southern town that feels like it’s been plucked right out of the most Bohemian of neighborhoods. From the vintage boutiques to hipster pubs, it’s the lifeblood of The Highlands area. I spent many weekends at one of the many local coffee shops or browsing the classics at the now-sadly-closed ear-X-tacy independent record store or taking a stroll through Cave Hill Cemetery where the legendary KFC Col. Sanders is buried.

Whenever I’m back in town, I usually meet friends for drinks at Molly Malone’s in this wonderful neighborhood. At the beginning of Bardstown Road you can find the oldest nightclub in town, the Phoenix Hill Tavern. If you’re looking for a more laid-back nightlife scene, be sure to check out the bars here over the more touristy 4th Street Live complex.

Churchill Downs

In the spring of 2007, Chris and I joined all the drunk and crazy University of Louisville students and others in the infield who couldn’t afford the good seats at Churchill Downs to catch a glimpse of Street Sense take the roses. A classic tradition, the track and its surrounding glamour offer even the most uninitiated horse racing enthusiast a chance to get up-close-and-personal with the posh side of the sport. The museum on the grounds and the guided tours are especially interesting, focusing on the traditions and lives of famous horses and jockeys.

Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory

If you go to Louisville and neglect to have your photo taken with the six-story-high replica of Babe Ruth’s bat, you’re just insulting the city. At the Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory you can tour where these famous baseball bats come from and learn the preferences of the heavy hitters of MLB history. As a complimentary souvenir, you’ll receive a miniature Louisville Slugger. Just be sure that you put this little bat into your checked baggage as the TSA at the Louisville International Airport display a case of the confiscated ones at the security check.

Down the street from the museum and factory, you’ll find the Louisville Slugger Field where the Louisville Bats, the Triple A team for the Cincinnati Reds, take on regional challengers each spring.

Muhammad Ali Center

Growing up in Louisville, Cassius Clay (which, you’ll find many varied streets in the city named for the beloved son) began his boxing career at a local gym. Going on to become The Great Muhammad Ali of the sport, the legend and his family opened the Muhammad Ali Center in 2005. With a mission to encourage multicultural learning and inspire others to live the core principles the boxing great has dedicated his life to, the Center offers interesting exhibits and programs in a great space.

The Ohio River

Founded on the industry of a river town, Louisville owes its existence to the Ohio River whose banks it sits upon. Be sure to take a dinner cruise on the famous Belle of Louisville or cross the bridge into Indiana to check out the millions-of-years-old fossil beds of the Falls of the Ohio River.

Louisville Eats

If you want to go the traditional route, try a Kentucky Hot Brown at the historic Brown Hotel in downtown Louisville. If you want a regional specialty, check out a Skyline Chili in The Highlands. Great brunch places can be found on Market Street, such as Toast on Market.

If you want soul, check out my old neighborhood’s Chicken King, a favorite staple of mine. It’s off East Broadway, but, be warned, I didn’t necessarily live in the best neighborhood in the city. The guys on my street that looked uncannily like actors who portrayed shady characters on Law and Order always waved at me on my way to work, though.

Working in Louisville

With a varied landscape of industries, from tourism to shipping (home of UPS), there are many work opportunities in Louisville. For a closer look at working in The ‘Ville, I asked my former co-worker, Carol Labashosky, from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Louisville District Public Affairs Office to give us some insight.

Working in the Derby City for the past 13 years, Carol applauds Louisville for its “big small city” feel. “Louisville is easy to get around, logistically and personally. The people are friendly, and connecting here is much easier than in major markets,” she says.

When she’s not fielding questions from the media about public works or military construction projects, Carol spends time in her Barking Dog Enterprises art studio where she invented Scrapboarding, a fine-art technique where she takes painting, photographs or memorabilia and affixes them to boards or canvas. Carol says “the art community in Louisville is thriving. Art events like outdoor sales, walks, shows and festivals are happening on a regular basis. With spaces like the Mellwood Art Center, Louisville has really become an artist destination.”

On the weekends, Carol takes her beloved Sheltie, Frosted Mugs, to the many lovely parks, like Iroquois Park. She also recommends checking out the many bourbon distilleries in the nearby area, like Four Roses, or taking in an outdoor concert.

I give Louisville a 7+. As Louisville is known for the Kentucky Derby, what’s your favorite city known especially for a special event?

-Monica

When does culture cross the line: Searching for a spouse in the Chinese marriage market

In perfectly straight rows, tables were lined up throughout the park. People strolled among the tables and vendors on this sunny day, casually stopping to read the placards all in Chinese with photos of young men and women. Some tables hoisted American flags, others proudly displayed Chinese fans or prayer beads.

As my favorite travel activity, I was excited to explore another market in Shanghai. Unlike the wet market tour I had recently attended, though, this market wasn’t selling fruits and vegetables. These vendors weren’t seasoned in sales of meat and spices. These vendors had another product to bargain with this day: their sons and daughters.

Welcome to a Chinese marriage market

In a nearby park each Saturday morning, parents and matchmakers set up booths to potentially arrange the marriages of their adult children. A placard for each potential candidate with a photo is set out among tables for shoppers (typically, this market is exclusive to only parent shoppers) to inspect. On the card are the stats of the potential bride or groom: age, weight, height, education, occupation, etc. The American flags indicate the candidate currently resides in the U.S. Parents stroll through reviewing each placard. When they find one that is appealing, they then begin negotiations with the other parents or matchmaker to set up a meeting between the children.

We mainly saw candidates in their late 20s to early 30s, but there was a section of the park for more senior bachelors and bachelorettes. I believe these are typically widowers and widows looking for another chance at love (or partnership). I have also been told about a fake marriage market where the LGBT population can find an opposite-sex partner for the sole purpose of producing a child or, at least, pleasing parents.

As with most forms of traditions, the ancient practice of arranged marriage has evolved here in China. In times past, arranged marriage was a strict policy that may have meant you didn’t even meet your spouse until your wedding day. Today, though parents still have a hand in marriage, it is much more open to one’s free choice. The Chinese marriage market now serves as more of a dating site administered by parents than a rock-solid contract enforced by parents.

Crossing the line?

Since visiting the market, Chris and I have been revisiting a debate. When does culture cross the line? When are acts “just part of the culture” and when should they be viewed as morally offensive?

I believe that Chris and I are very tolerant people, and we do our best to respect other cultures. We both agree the Chinese marriage market, especially in its current form, is just part of the culture. Though it may be strange to our Western senses, this is what is normal and acceptable here.

When more serious events take place, though, what then? When I was an undergrad working toward my minor in Political Science, I took a Global Issues class where I wrote a paper on government involvement to stop crimes against humanity. My specific focus was if practicing female genital mutilation in African countries was a human rights violation or if attempting to intervene was a state sovereignty violation since this was part of the culture. My argument was against FGM for its torturous harm to human beings, regardless of tradition, without the capability to consent.

In the news, we consistently hear about customs that may not only be strange to us but offend us to the point of action. Where do you draw that line and say “that’s beyond acceptable for the culture of the human race?” In my opinion, it’s anything that harms another living creature without consent. When a being is not given the choice of whether to participate, then the cultural aspect becomes morally offensive to the point of protest on others.

Chris and I would love to hear your opinion on the subject. When does culture cross the line for you?

-Monica

Jumping frogs and squirming eels: Shopping in a Chinese wet market

Before coming to China, I knew there would be some different items on the menu. I knew that the Chinese food I had in the States was a bastardized version of the real stuff. As I wasn’t a huge fan of that version anyways, I wasn’t expecting to find myself in a cultural cuisine heaven here in China. Further admitting to my lack of the palate needed for Asian cuisine, I foolishly also believed that a fortune cookie was authentically Chinese until I recently attended a dinner at a restaurant here specializing in American-bastardized Chinese food, appropriately named “Fortune Cookie.”

What I wasn’t prepared for was the exoticism that would be a typical trip to the market here. I have come to love open-air markets since we made our first international move a year ago. The brightness of fresh produce, the mouthwatering aromas from the grills, and the lively calls from the vendors urging you to stop and look at their selections, it’s always an incredible experience. From the feiras of Brazil to the orderly market day in a European town to the nostalgia of an American farmer’s market, these open-air grocers are a healthy and vibrant shopping experience.

What you’ll see, smell, hear and (possibly) taste in a Chinese wet market

A wet market is the open-air market where you can buy produce, meats, spices, eggs and other groceries. It is so called a wet market because the vendors are consistently washing down the vegetables or pouring fish out of containers and the water flows down the street. There are air-conditioned super markets here, such as the French CarreFour, and I have even found Kate & Kimi, an online community supplying deliverable groceries. The wet market, though, is the authentic Chinese grocery shopping experience.

Upon arriving here in Shanghai, I immediately sought out expatriate organizations that had proven to be lifesavers in our other destinations. With some research, I joined the Shanghai Expatriate Association. Like the São
Paulo International Newcomers Club, the organization offers social and cultural outings to teach foreigners about the Chinese and Shanghai culture. I recently booked a tour of a Chinese wet market through SEA. Our tour was led by Janny Chyn of Shanghai Pathways, a tour agency that specializes in tours of unique and hidden areas of Shanghai. Janny provided a very informational tour of Penglai Lu Market, one of the first and currently the largest wet market in the city.

Breads and noodles

We started by venturing out onto the first long street of vendors. The first thing you notice is the crowd. The street is narrow, and there are hundreds of people dodging motor bikes and men with carts ringing a bell to signify they are collecting plastic containers as the recycling system isn’t that advanced here.

At the top of the street, a vendor was making Chinese pancakes on a griddle. This flat bread is spread with honey and rolled up for easy take-away. Our next stop was at a vendor selling heaps of different noodles. According to Janny, the Chinese, not the Italians, actually are to be credited with the founding of pasta. Marco Polo took noodles home to Italy after one of his expeditions to China, and the Italians created pasta based upon these noodles. It seems, though, that there is quite a bit of debate on this topic.

Dairy and eggs

As we moved further down the hustling street, we stopped at a great display of eggs. There were white ones, brown ones, speckled ones and oddly blue ones. Known as Century Eggs, these blue ones are placed in the ground to ferment for months instead of years. The whites and yolks become a black jelly inside and are eaten as one would eat a hard-boiled egg. If you can get past the look, texture and smell, I’m told that are quite good. As a rather picky eater, I wasn’t able to get past the first three senses.

Though it is largely believed milk is not popular in China, Janny said this is not the case. Chinese rather enjoy their milk if not the cheese. Tofu is actually a replacement for most things cheese here. Janny told the story of how milk came to the country in the 1800s. An American businessman noticed there was a lack of good milk in China. Not part of the traditional diet, there wasn’t a need for such a source. He set out on a Public Relations campaign to introduce and develop a strong market for milk in the country, and it has been booming ever since. Most of the milk is imported, but there has been some recent scares in production.

Vegetables, beans, spices and nuts

We moved on to the first stall of nuts, beans and spices. Janny proceeded to explain that in Chinese culture, it is believed that the food matches the body parts it resembles. For example, red beans are believed to be beneficial for the blood, walnuts are good for for the brain, and kidney beans support the kidneys. I found it very interesting that the Chinese believe purple food, like eggplant, is a good preventative for cancer. Maybe it is no surprise, then, that the American Cancer Society uses a purple ribbon to raise awareness about cancer.

Next door was a vegetable stand with a variety of produce. Especially interesting were the mushrooms, which came from all over the country. One in particular is called the hidden mushroom. It’s as if you can get a two-for-one. Inside the first mushroom a second mushroom grows.

As most homes don’t have the space and food is not doused in preservatives here, most Chinese go to the wet market daily as they only buy a one-day supply at a time. Some haggling does take place at the wet markets, but the price is plainly posted on many items. At the low costs (I bought two bunches of asparagus for the equivalent of less than $1), it seems a bit stingy to even attempt to get a lower price.

Meat

As we made the turn onto the next street, I saw them and my heart sank. Inside cramped cages were ducks, chickens and pigeons. Beside them were about 20 frogs in a large bowl. Every now and then, a frog would try to jump out only to be thwarted by the mesh covering over the bowl. A tank of slithering eels came next with the bodies squirming up through the mesh. Known as a delicacy in Shanghai, the eels were pushed back down into the tank by the vendor or snatched out to be skinned. A specialty for the city, hairy crabs pinched out of from their steel cages hoping to catch a vendor’s finger as he snatched them out to beat them with a hammer. All sorts of fish floundered in tubs of shallow water.

The exoticism of seeing your meat alive and jumping was a bit much to take. If I eat meat, it’s mainly chicken, and I have no desire to see what it looked like before it was slaughtered or for it to resemble itself in anyway once it’s on my plate. Here in China, however, that is opposite of what is normal. The Chinese believe that it is best to buy meat alive and butchered in full view. This way, you can see if the animal is healthy and ensure you are receiving the freshest cut. It’s also very typical to serve meat in its original form. Plenty of restaurants here serve the chicken with its head and feet (it’s a popular belief that chicken feet are good for a woman’s complexion) still attached or a fish with its eyes still staring at you. Bones are also left in many animals as the Chinese believe the best meat is located nearest the bone.

Holiday foods

There are many festivals on the Chinese calendar, and each comes with a special food. There is sticky sweet rice for the Dragon Festival, and, most recently, moon cakes for the Moon Festival. These special treats are a big hit in the wet market.

With eight distinct food regions in China, the country has a well-versed menu for any palate. To make these unique dishes, wet markets are the traditional means to buy the freshest ingredients. Though a bit of an attack on the Western senses, I would certainly recommend a stroll through these open-air smorgasbords of sights, sounds and smells.

What has been your strangest grocery shopping experience?

-Monica

WorkLife Travel Destination: London

As you may know, I took my first international solo trip and first visit to London about two months ago. The experience, both of solo traveling and the city, were wonderful. London is a great place with such a mix of culture, sights and storied history. I knew I would like London, but I was surprised to really like London after all our other international travel. Over my three-day exploration of The Old Smoke, I fell in love with the place and it has become one of my top travel destinations.

Favorite Places

Buckingham Palace

I was lucky enough to be in London during the royal birth and at Buckingham Palace when it was announced that the Duchess of Cambridge had gone into labor. To be present for such an historical event was in itself a grand experience, but to witness it at the epicenter of British royalty was epic.

My first full day in town, I spent about four hours at the palace. I watched the changing of the guard, observed the massive crowd anxiously awaiting the announcement if the new heir to the throne was a boy or girl, and news media personnel running in every direction possible doing live shots at every angle. It was quite the show.

Though the palace itself isn’t the most extraordinary building, the beauty is in the gates and fountains and gardens that surround it. I wasn’t able to go inside as tours are only permitted when the Queen is away for her summer holiday in Scotland, but just seeing it from the outside was pretty spectacular.

Tower Bridge

Often confused for the less-impressive London Bridge (funny sidebar, a London Bridge was actually sold to a developer in Arizona), the Tower Bridge is a beautiful drawbridge stretching across the Thames River. You can walk or drive across it, and it opens periodically to allow river traffic to pass. This is one of the most iconic landmarks for the city.

Hyde Park

My hostel in London was just a few blocks from Hyde Park, so I spent a good part of my three days walking through this massive green space. Sculptures and fountains can be found throughout, and overlooking the park is Kensington Palace where the royal baby will be raised. The park is my No. 1 place to visit for London.

Tower of Queen Elizabeth

It’s not Big Ben! That’s just the nickname of the bell inside of the tower. Don’t feel bad, though. I can only act like I know what I’m talking about because the tour guide explained the difference to our group.

Attached to Parliament, the tower combined with the impressive-looking building that houses the English bodies of government makes up another iconic landmark for London. It sits on the banks of the Thames River, and overlooks park space where Westminster Abbey can be found.

Wellington Arch Circle

Home to about six different monuments, the Wellington Arch Circle makes an easy-to-find meeting spot right on the corner of Hyde Park and direct walk to Buckingham Palace. Named for the First Duke of Wellington, Field Marshall Arthur Wellesley, two of the monuments in the circle represent his many accomplishments.

The Eye

I adore Ferris wheels, so I couldn’t go to London without taking a spin on the world-famous Eye. Standing at 135 meters (about 443 feet) tall, this ride gives breathtaking views of the city from above. As each cart is also air-conditioned, it gave a nice reprieve from the heat wave London was experiencing during my visit.

Tours

There are so many places to see in London, and I certainly did not get to everything I intended, such as Piccadilly Circus and the Tower of London where the Crown Jewels are housed. I have every intention of making several more trips to this spectacular city to continue my exploring.

I did get to see a lot of London, though, and it was through great tours. Chris and I found Sandemans New Europe Tours when we had a limited amount of time to show a visiting friend around Paris. The company’s brochures are usually in hostels in cities where they operate, and the tour guides are very knowledgeable with stories about each location. There is always a free walking tour to show you the main sights of a city, and then other very affordable tours will focus on specific areas and interests in the cities. We have taken these tours now in Paris, London, Berlin and Madrid, and we have found them to be great ways to become familiar with a new city.
(*Note, we have not been compensated in any way by Sandemans, this is only our opinion.)

Eats

In all honesty, I didn’t eat much in London. With trying to squeeze in as much as I could in sightseeing, I didn’t take the time to dive into the culinary scene. I went with the one requirement to have fish and chips at a pub, and I did that about twice. The rest of the time, I survived on snacks from street vendors.

I did, however, absolutely find a new drink. I ~~don’t like~~ hate beer. I can stomach a Corona with some salt and lime, but I much rather just have a margarita. No matter how hard I’ve tried in my adult life, I have just never been able to acquire a taste for the swill. So, when it comes to nights at a pub or tailgating for a football game or catching up with friends at a cookout, I’m just out of luck in the “let’s have a few brewskies” department.

Thanks to some British pubs, however, I have been saved by the grace of cider. In between our travels to London and Morocco, we stayed with Chris’ former soccer coach in a small town outside of London. This English gentleman that kept us laughing for hours with his antics and his lovely and proper wife introduced me to Pimm’s and cider, and, hallelujah, I finally found something I could actually order in draft form. For the rest of my trip to London, I was ordering StrongBow and whatever other ciders I could find at a pub.

Working in London

As New York City is to the United States, London is the career capital for England. For an insider’s perspective, Chris asked Sam Price, graduate recruitment coordinator for KPMG, to give us the scope on living and working in this ever-moving city.

Since moving to London in January, Sam says getting to work each day has been quite convenient. “The transport network is brilliant- buses, trains, London overground, and the infamous London underground! So wherever you live, its practically impossible NOT to have an easy journey to work.”

Along with attracting such a variety of businesses, Sam also touts the mixture of people that can be found in most of London’s offices. “The diversity of cultures and backgrounds around London makes sure that your working environment has employees in it with different opinions, views and perspectives on things, which really helps creativity in teams and driving business forward. It also helps you learn about different cultures, languages etc.”

With the eclectic mix of restaurants, bars, cafes and clubs, Sam says the networking opportunities in London are endless. With the wide assortment of businesses and professionals, social events for networking happen all week long at almost every joint in town.

Come the weekend, Sam hangs out with friends at those same restaurants, bars, cafes and clubs in a more relaxed atmosphere. After a Friday night dinner and drinks, his Saturdays are full of opportunities. “… enjoying a stroll down Brick Lane in East London, finding a park festival in Brixton or Clapham, visiting some of the museums in Central London (most of which are free) … there are loads of markets to choose from as well, a favorite being Borough Market by London Bridge.” For more shopping excursions, Sam recommends Carnaby Street, Oxford Circus and Seven Dials. And, if you’re looking for a day trip, check out Greenwhich with lots of boutique shops in a quaint setting.

Known in all of England for merry times, Sam says Saturday nights in London offer a host of options for music and drinks. “Hip hop and rap can be found in Concrete, dance and beats in Hoxton Square Bar and The Falcon, chart and dance in Dogstar, up and coming DJs in Fabric, Indie at Barfly, and rock in The Winchester. If you want a more chilled out vibe, then any bar in Central London can provide that for you, with a number of nice places in Covent Garden, Southbank and Regent Street.”

On a more relaxed Sunday, Sam takes his bike out to trails in one of the many London parks, such as Clapham or Wimbledon Common. He also recommends a nice walk along Thames Path.

I give London a 9+. What city have you surprisingly fell in love with?

-Monica

I have a Swiss bank account: No, I’m not a millionaire

A Swiss bank account may still have the aura of James Bond style appeal, but it’s realistically not what it once was. A recent crackdown by the IRS following high-profile cases of Americans, even presidential candidates, holding Swiss bank accounts has led not only to the end of secrecy for Americans but Swiss banks no longer wanting to deal with the trouble and hassle of doing business with Americans.

More than ever before, Americans living in Switzerland and other places abroad are now giving up their American citizenship so that they can again complete simple tasks like paying bills. Additionally, our international accountant has told us that the United States is the only country in the world to continue charging its citizens taxes throughout their lives, regardless of how much time they have been away.

As we began researching Swiss banks, we found that cantonal banks would likely fit our services best. Cantons, like states but much smaller and maybe more resembling counties inside of a state, each have their own cantonal bank. You do most of your business in your local canton but can withdraw money for free from ATMs at any cantonal bank in Switzerland.

We also read stories of newly-arrived Swiss residents wandering into the first bank they found and being told that the establishment they had entered was a “private” Swiss bank with a minimum balance of much higher than the amount they planned to deposit (usually at least $300,000 USD). As we wandered down Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse, nicknamed “the most expensive street in the world,” we noticed several of these private banks, more likely to be holding Romney’s and Obama’s money than our own.

After completing our research, we walked to our nearest cantonal bank and attempted to sign up for a bank account. The banker, who had never seen an American passport before, gave us some paperwork and advised us to return the next week, giving himself time to prepare the documentation for our account or maybe secretly hoping that we would take our low profitability account elsewhere.

We returned the following week with our initial paperwork and passports. At this time, our banker gave us additional paperwork that the bank had determined was required by the American government for our account. He translated German documents for us and asked us to expand his knowledge on the American/English documents and the meaning of social security numbers. Again, we had documents to take home with us for another return.

On our third visit to the bank, seated beneath large posters of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro reminding us of our most recent home, the banker told us that we should now have everything complete and to wait for the bank to process our account. He asked us several questions about whether we intended to invest in Swiss funds, what our typical balance would remain, and other questions where the bank management could gauge profitability while balancing efforts spent on creating an account for Americans.

After waiting approximately two weeks on a bank decision, we contacted our banker and found that we would be approved but that the bank once again required additional paperwork for the unusual nuances of hosting an American. This time, the banker agreed to come to us and visited our apartment to finalize paperwork and give us our new account number. He accepted a Coca-Cola to drink as we talked, a change of taste from the usual Swiss preference of Rivella and recalled a recent business event where he drew awkward stares from Swiss co-workers after ordering a Scotch at the bar, a lesson for the young banker who was still learning his own business culture as well.

Our Swiss account remains open but simply so that we don’t return to the hassle of a long process should we ever need it again, not for any Bond-esque benefits. The Swiss government had begun more open communications with the American government until Snowden recently revealed that he had worked as a spy in Geneva, leading us to be asked many times whether we were CIA/NSA employees as we traveled in western Switzerland. The scandals have now spread to other countries and taken down some leading characters.

Meanwhile, we’re now in China, where as long as someone who speaks and translates Chinese accompanies you, a bank account can be opened in five to 10 minutes with no minimum balance.

-Chris

photo credit: [Jim] via photopin cc

Morocco: Land of contrast

From shorts to burkas, fasting to feasting, opulent to destitute, beaches to deserts, we saw all extremes in Morocco. For our first visit to Africa and our first volunteer trip, this country provided a great mix to experience cultures unlike any we have seen in previous travels.

The project

With Chris’ work policy that allows two paid weeks off for volunteer work, we wanted to best use the time to help in the most impactful way possible. We decided to provide assistance to a developing nation. Since this was our first overseas volunteer experience, we needed expert guidance. After researching our options, we chose to go through UBelong, a non-profit organization based in Washington, D.C., that partners with local non-profits to place international volunteers in positions that will most benefit the unique needs of the country.

We chose a project that would put our skills to good use. We were to work with children teaching English and social skills. UBelong works with Thaqafat Association, a Moroccan non-profit in Rabat, the capital city, that is establishing a culture of volunteerism in the country. As our program director explained, “volunteerism is a foreign concept in Morocco. You will often hear ‘I don’t understand. Why do you do it?'”

Thaqafat paired us with a budding association in Salé, the neighboring city, that was developing to assist people with mental and physical disabilities. The association hadn’t exactly gotten on its feet, yet, so it was mainly operating as an after-school program for underprivileged children. In a small building in the city center, there were two rooms to teach the younger and older children and a room where ladies made candies they sold in the market places.

We partnered with two other volunteers to teach the children English mainly using pictures and gestures. As Arabic and French are the two main languages of Morocco, it did prove difficult to communicate. Fortunately, our fellow volunteer, Olivia, a student at Rice University, spoke French, and with the older children, we were able to get much across. When it came to the younger children who only knew Arabic, we relied on the association’s guide, a determined young man named Mustapha.

We spent our two weeks in the country teaching the children everything from foods to colors to animals, playing games, and sharing information about ourselves and the U.S. These children were incredibly open to anything we offered to teach and extremely loving. The little boys adored Chris for his soccer-related teaching games, the little girls were thrilled to learn about jewelry, and I don’t think either one of us has ever received so many kisses on our cheeks (the traditional greeting and farewell) than our last day working there. To see and interact with these children who were so open and loving and curious, it truly was a remarkable experience. For a first volunteer assignment, I don’t think we could have chosen a better trip.

The people

As part of our assignment, we lived with a host family in the medina of Rabat. The medina is the most historic part of the city. A city within the city, the medina is enclosed in barrier walls that were once constructed to protect the ancient city.

Our host family was wonderful. Unlike many other host families, life was made easier for us with a host mother that spoke fluent English. She worked with many associations that taught Arabic and hosted internationals. Our host father took care of the home and the two young sons. We were made to feel welcomed right away and throughout our stay. We dined with the family each evening, and we attended special family dinners at the grandparent’s home.

Overall, the people of Morocco were welcoming. Many times over, random people on the streets would welcome us to their country and thank us for visiting. We were invited to have tea constantly, and people wanted to share information with us about the country.

The politics

Since the French colonization in the 1950s, the Moroccan government has loosened its religious grip on society. Though Islamic laws are enforced, there is much more freedom today in the constitutional monarchy.

From what we observed, the current leader, King Mohammed VI, is well loved by the majority of the people. Unlike his father and grandfather, he has allowed the people much more leeway in their decisions. As one Moroccan told us, “most of us love our king. We think he is sensible and has been good for Morocco. We just think his powers should be limited. We need a stronger Parliament. Our Parliament is weak, but what we do not want is to have the king overthrown and then have another king and another like Egypt.”

While we were in country, there was a big controversy that erupted. As a favor to the king of Spain, King Mohammed pardoned a group of Spanish prisoners, allowing them to return to Spain. In the group was a convicted pedophile. Unlike his predecessors would have done, the king came out and apologized for the oversight, claiming he didn’t realize this particular prisoner was among the group. We witnessed protests and spirited debates about the topic.

I was quite surprised to see women taking part in these debates. Before our trip, I was nervous about the treatment of women in an Arabic country. To my delightful surprise, I came to realize that women in Morocco enjoy many freedoms. Before the French colonization, women were not allowed to leave the home, go to school or have jobs. Now, women are free to make the choices that will most benefit their lives. During our initial cultural training sessions with Thaqafat, we were even told how the laws in the country are changing to better protect women from assault.

In the old ways, a man could marry as many wives as he chose, with no regard to his other wives’ desires. Today, though polygamy is still lawful but not as popular, the first wife must give her permission before the man can take another wife. Also, where divorce could only have been sought by the husband in the past, now both parties can file for a divorce, and the wife can be entitled to the marital property. Though there is still work to be done on the women’s rights front, steps are being taken in the right direction.

A little known interesting fact, Morocco was the first nation to recognize the newly independent United States of America in 1777. The Treaty of Peace and Friendship, re-negotiated in 1836, between the USA and Morocco is the USA’s longest remaining open treaty.

The fashion

Continuing to be pleasantly surprised, I found all sorts of manner of fashion in Morocco. With the relaxed laws, we saw women in every imaginable clothing combination. From Western short outfits to the full burkas covering face and hands, women were very individualized. As our host mother put it, “If you are Muslim, you know what you should wear. It’s not like Saudi Arabia here.” Our Couchsurfer host in Casablanca also told us women are free to dress as they please, and Muslims are free to look away.

We also saw plenty of counterfeit goods. Many of the young men were dressed in Armani shirts, Tommy Hilfiger jeans and other designer brands. We found shops selling these clothes practically at every corner.

The food

As we were in Morocco during Ramadan, we only were able to enjoy Moroccan cuisine after the sun went down. Well into the night, though, we ate like kings.

Each evening when the call to prayer was made, we dined with our host family. Our host father created delicious feasts of meatballs, fruits, meat-filled pastries and soups. We always had fresh juices to wash it all down.

When we dined at the grandparent’s house, we enjoyed a traditional meal of roasted chicken and couscous. A national dish of sorts, couscous is made of corn and is most closely relatable to rice. It is usually served topped with various vegetables, and it is quite a heavy meal.

Meals are very communal, and everyone eats out of one cooking dish called a tajine. In Morocco, utensils are little used. Instead, bread is at every meal and you use it to scope up your portion in the tajine.

Moroccans are not shy of sugar. Specialty candy is everywhere, and loads of sugar are added to most drinks. One of our fellow volunteers even told us how her host mom added brown sugar as a topping to spaghetti.

Tea, or Moroccan whiskey as it is jokingly referred to, is the social drink. As alcohol is illegal for locals (foreigners can purchase beer in the supermarkets, but you must show your passport), people congregate at cafés to share small cups of tea. As the social climate changes, more women are beginning to frequent cafes, but it can still be seen as taboo. One café Chris and I entered, I was the only woman in the place. Needless to say, I did receive some unpleasant looks throughout the evening.

The sights

With thousands of years of history and a diverse landscape, Morocco makes a rich tourist destination. Below are photos from places we visited in Rabat, Casablanca and Fes.

Morocco: A land of contrast — A view of the medina in Fes from a former palace. The Fes medina is considered one of the largest in the world.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Morocco, and we plan to return one day to experience the country outside of Ramadan. This unique and majestical country offers something for all tastes, and we certainly recommend it for other travelers.

-Monica

Lost somewhere in the crowds of Shanghai

The city skyline. With approximately 24 million people, Shanghai is the world's largest city by population.

After a month of back-to-back travel, we have made it to China. Needless to say, life has been hectic, and I know I’m behind on posts. I have not forgotten about our blog post for our trip to Morocco, and I plan to have it up by early next week. Chris also has one more post about Switzerland, and then I will turn full attention to our new home.

I just arrived three days ago here in Shanghai, and Chris has been here two weeks before that. I don’t think it’s actually set in for either of us that were actually here. I mean, China, really? Last night as we were walking around, I told Chris it felt like we were in a Chinatown in some big U.S. city. But, alas, we are here, and we’re looking forward to experiencing such an exotic locale.

And, do I mean exotic! Every sense has been assaulted since I stepped off the plane. It’s really loud here, and I don’t mean the city noise. It seems talking at a normal range is overrated and shouting is the preferred method. I went grocery shopping last night, and I couldn’t even hear myself think in the crowd. As one of the largest cities by population in the world at approximately 24 million people, it’s easy to get lost among the chaos.

Groceries were also quite the experience. I stopped by a food market to look at the vegetables, and rounding the corner I ran smack into the live animal section. By live, I mean frogs jumping in cages and eels squirming their way out of the top of the tank (photos to come). Chris has already eaten a bullfrog, and not just its legs. As I wasn’t a huge fan of Chinese food in the States, I’m pretty sure I’ll be losing some weight here as I become a vegan.

My first night here, we did enjoy a nice Chinese dinner at a restaurant specializing in Yunnan cuisine, food from the south region of China. As part of a cultural expedition, the local Shanghai Community Center sponsored a dining out where our guide explained the cuisine and how to eat it. We had an array of dishes from wild vegetables like pine needles to roasted duck to konjac root jelly, known as “poor people food” since you can eat as much as you want without gaining weight. I’m sure learning to eat with chop sticks (no forks in sight) can attribute to weight loss, too.

Being here only three days, I have already seen a new world. Shanghai is in extreme opposition to Zurich, and this will be a grand adventure. More posts are soon to come about the food, fashion and overall culture of this amazing country, and we hope you will join us for the ride.

Want to know something specific about China? Let us know in the comments, and we will work it into a blog post.

-Monica

Volunteering in Morocco: Our first trip

We're off to volunteer in Morocco — A Walkway in the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.

He who foretells the future lies, even if he tells the truth.

-Moroccan Proverb

We’ll be leaving soon for our first trip to Morocco and our first volunteer trip. We’ve booked a program through an organization that pairs travelers with local charities throughout the world. UBelong has set us up to work in an orphanage for abandoned children and destitute elderly where we’ll fulfill teaching and mentoring roles while we live with a host family in the capital city of Rabat.

Though we’re not exactly sure what to expect, we’ve been reading up on living and volunteering in Morocco. Our favorite reading, so far, has been The Caliph’s House: A Year in Casablanca by Tahir Shah.

The top tip for both we’ve come across is to be flexible. Though you should be prepared for anything, being open to flux in your schedule can lead to wonderful opportunities.

We’re taking this mantra to heart as we prepare for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. Monica is most looking forward to immersing into the Moroccan culture by living with and learning from the host family. Chris is most looking forward to immersing into the culture by seeing daily life with a Moroccan family while volunteering to help the community.

Monica’s biggest concern is the restriction on women. Morocco is a predominately Muslim country with conservative religious standards, but the country is seen as a more liberal than other Islamic nations. Chris is most concerned about immersing into an environment where the main language is Arabic and even the characters don’t hold meaning for us. The second language is French, which we have an extremely limited background.

We’ll be on holiday from the blog starting next week until Aug. 21 when we hope to post about our entire Moroccan volunteer experience. Until then, يسافر آمنة وممتعة

-Chris & Monica

photo credit: papalars via photopin cc

Going it alone: Tips for solo traveling

In a few weeks, I will take my first international trip alone. Gulp! Christopher and I will fly to London where he will take a train on to Birmingham, England, for a business trip. I will stay behind for three glorious days of sightseeing and diving into the culture of The Old Smoke.

I’ve taken trips alone before in the U.S., but this is a whole new ballgame. I wanted to start out safe, so I’ve chosen London for my first solo international trip due to (primarily) the language, similarities to American culture, ease of public transportation and world-famous sights. This is also my first trip to England (countless hours of layovers at Heathrow International Airport not included), and my first time staying by myself in a hostel. I’m a bit nervous, but more than anything, I’m really excited to tackle some more firsts.

Solo traveling like a pro

In preparation for the big trip, I’ve been reading up on blog posts and articles about solo traveling. Sites such as Oneika the Traveller and Solo Traveler have provided some great information. Here are some tips for solo traveling I’ve gleaned.

1. Know your surroundings

Safety is always a top-of-mind issue when traveling alone. I won’t have Christopher to watch my back, ward off unwelcome attention or follow aimlessly. I’m going to have to put on what I call my “city face” and know what’s going on around me. There will be no mindless strolling as I will need to keep an eye out for myself.

2. Be prepared

I’ve been working on an itenarery for the past few weeks and researching the layout of London. I’m looking forward to visiting Buckingham Palace, The Eye, Westminster Abbey and other great locations. I will gather public transporation maps and other tourist information brochures when I arrive. Having a plan in place will not only keep me busy but it will also keep the loneliness at bay and help me look like I know what I’m doing.

Going it alone: Tips for solo traveling — Fran and Dan were a lovely English couple we met on a pub crawl in Berlin. When you’re open to it, you’ll discover new people throughout your travels

3. Be open to meeting new people

I know up until now, it sounds like I’ve been completely warning against speaking to strangers. Absolutely not! I look forward to meeting other solo travelers and new people. I also believe it will be a different dynamic as Christopher won’t be with me to lean on in the conversation, so it will all be up to me to engage. Of course, I will be smart about it and enact some of the basic safety rules I learned as a child, but I don’t want to be scared of an opportunity to meet some interesting folks.

4. Take a book to meals

Though I’ve never felt too uncomfortable eating alone, I also don’t want to stare into space too much. Taking a book to meals can help avoid unwanted attention, signal to other solo travelers you’re also on a trip alone, and make great conversation starters. I’ll be reading Thinking, Fast and Slow by Daniel Kahneman.

5. Embrace the solo

As solo traveling builds confidence and decisiveness, I’m looking forward to learning more about myself through this trip. How will I do without a partner to share decisions with? Will I enjoy being alone or do I need constant company? Good or bad, this experience will teach me a lot about traveling and myself.

Do you have any tips for solo traveling or what I should see in London?

-Monica