Possibly the world’s most expensive Christmas tree, this Swarovski masterpiece towers over one of Zurich’s Christmas markets in its main station
After spending the last two Christmas seasons in more exotic locales (Brazilian beaches and Tibet), we’re staying around our current home in Eastern Switzerland for Christmas Day 2014. Although it’s been an unseasonably warm winter thus far without snow 740 m above sea level in our home of St. Gallen, we’ve visited several Christmas markets over the past few weeks as well as a few other Christmas traditions, bringing us closer to the feeling of the holiday season.
Christmas in Austria
Tim Burton would be proud of the Austrians. Each year in early December
Krampus is now commercialized in Austria just as much as Santa Claus.
around St. Nicholas Day, not only St. Nicholas appears but also his feared nemesis, Krampus. Krampus brings whippings rather than gifts and may grab a child or two to throw in his basket for extra torment. Chocolate and greeting card companies have now corporatized Krampus to the equivalency of Santa Claus, but the festivities were a must for our first Christmas in German speaking Europe. In many towns throughout Austria, Krampus Laufen (Krampus Runs) are organized to allow Krampus clubs to parade through the streets and offer scares. We attended two of the more organized runs in Klagenfurt and Graz. Frequent targets of Krampus include young children, attractive young women and friends of teen boys stuck near the front of the crowd while their friends taunt Krampi safely behind. Photos of our Krampus Laufen experiences can be found below.
Christmas in Switzerland
St. Nicholas and Knecht Ruprecht talk to a child in Wil, Switzerland.
Traditions in Switzerland related to Santa Claus vary from canton to canton as much as any other subject. We chose Wil, a town between St. Gallen and Zurich, to witness this year’s St. Nicholas Day festivities. In this area of Switzerland, St. Nicholas and his dark hooded companion, Knecht Ruprecht, arrive as a pair. Locals say that both were once a feared pair who would beat children for their naughty deeds of the past year. In some parts of Switzerland, the darker clothed companion, also sometimes referred to as Samichlaus’ partner Schmutzli, still plays this role.
A young child waits with his treat given to him by St. Nikolaus and Knecht Ruprecht.
Today in Wil, however, both are considered amiable and tend to focus more on what children did right over the past year, encouraging them to continue to listen to their parents. On St. Nicholas Day at exactly 3 pm in Wil, church bells ring and a stream of pairs of these two characters, forming the St. Nikolaus Gruppe Wil, emerge from the main church. Children eagerly await, talk to the pair, and then receive a small sweet. Those hoping to someday act as St. Nikolaus must first spend several years as Knecht Ruprecht. Only when one St. Nikolaus departs does a Knecht Ruprecht have the chance of being promoted to the lead role.
Christmas in Germany
Thought we haven’t had the opportunity to spend much time in Germany this holiday season, we were able to check out the Christmas Market in Konstanz across the Bodensee from St. Gallen. From Monica’s time there when she was just babe, we know that this time of year is full of festivity there. We hope to get to more Christmas Markets in the country next year, like Nuremberg’s that is known worldwide.
Christmas Markets
With gluhwein and other warm drinks flowing and an array of trinkets and fine
Warm beverages are easy to find in Europe each December.
arts gifts in vendor stalls, Christmas markets always draw a huge crowd. We chose the large market in Salzburg as our first experience and we’ve now visited a few others, including one only a couple of blocks from where we live. The larger markets stay open from late November to late December, becoming the town’s main meeting point for a month. Smaller towns may open a market for only one weekend or even a single day.
Photos from Krampus Laufen (Krampus Run) in Klagenfurt, Austria
Members of a Krampus club hang around Klagenfurt before donning their costumesKrampus merchandise sold at Klagenfurt Christmas MarketKrampus vendor at Klagenfurt Christmas marketThe youngest Krampus we witnessed gave a scare to the even younger children.Krampi prepare before adding their mask and beginning the Krampus Laufen.
A scared but curious boy climbs a tree to see the action without risk of being whipped or kidnapped by Krampus.As many Krampi are costumed teenage boys, teen girls are frequently chosen for extra attention and whippings.
The final stretch at Klagenfurt allows costumed Krampi to have one last round of fun before ripping off the sweltering masks.Completion of the Krampus Laufen in Klagenfurt
Now living 2.5 hours from Munich, it was a must that we attend
another of the world’s most famous events – Oktoberfest, known as Wiesn locally, a shortened version of the Theresienwiese fairgrounds where it is held. First celebrated there in 1810 when King Ludwig I married Princess Therese (the grounds’ namesake), it has been celebrated ever since in any year that it was not wiped out by disease or war.
A call from our friend, Brittani, that she was visiting at just this time of year ensured that we didn’t procrastinate with our plans to another year and moved forward with our bookings for opening weekend.
As we entered the subway station near our hotel, we met a priest who was in Munich for opening day ceremonies at the cathedral adjacent to Theresienwiese. He quickly offered to lead us to the fairgrounds and gave his summary of the highlighted events ahead, including parades and ceremonies, while often pausing to remark that he must moderate his drinking today because he had to catch a flight tonight and work tomorrow (Sunday).
With 14 major tents, scores of small tents and an amusement park all jammed into Theresienwiese, there is plenty of fun to go around. The photo blog below summarizes our opening weekend of Oktoberfest 2014.
A rainy beginning to the day isn’t always so bad. As the crowds thinned, we wandered wherever we wanted throughout the morning and arrived at each spot just in time to see the major events recommended by our priest guide.
Popular politician, Bavarian first minister Horst Seehofer, makes his rounds.Prost!Many men wear red-white plaid shirts with their lederhosen.Parade on opening day bringing each brewery’s bier through the streets of Munich to respective tents.Locals pass the time awaiting the arrival of the bier inside the tent.
The Löwenbräu bier brand float.Bier has been served in glass mugs here since 1892.Horse racing was a part of Oktoberfest until 1960. Today, they simply bring in the bier.Our first bier tent.Festival tents also have their own bands. Here, one hails the coming of the bier.Opening Day parade bringing bier into the tent.Brezen (pretzel) is another big hit at Oktoberfest.Children lead the parade as the bier arrives at the tent for Opening Day.Kids climb for a better view of the parade.Cheers for the first bier as the keg is tapped.Sunflowers are also everywhere.The waitresses carry just as much bier as the men.Waiter delivering an armload of glass bier mugs.Outside of Spatenbräu’s tent.Smoking is no longer allowed inside of tents. Our friends at Happy To Be Homeless recommend watching these smoking areas for potential points of sneaking into tents no longer allowing entry.Monica with the classic bier mug and pretzel.
One of the traditional bier wagons at its final perch beside a tent.This Italian bachelorette sat beside us for a couple of hours. Oktoberfest is a popular destination for bachelor and bachelorette parties.This man led the crowds in the bier garten outside of the Spatenbräu tent.With two pretty blonde ladies in German dirndls accompanying me, finding a table wasn’t so difficult.Another table dancer.Overhead view of Oktoberfest. Always be careful in large crowds and away from them in poorly lit areas. While most are there to have fun, many crimes have been committed this year, as always.
These Munich locals told us that they will dress in traditional clothing and appear here every day throughout the festival.Another heavy load of bier.Ending the night in front of the Bavarian monument, towering over the field since 1850, where dozens sleep off a day of celebration.
We’re often told that in Switzerland there are only two times a year when most Swiss loosen up, release their inhibitions and spend some time purely having fun: Fasnacht (Carnivale) and OpenAir festivals (outdoor concerts held in almost every Swiss city throughout the summer that attract all the big names in music with a lucrative Swiss paycheck). They failed to mention one event, however, or maybe they intentionally failed to mention the Zurich Street Parade because many of the 1 million attendees are not Swiss and 90 percent of Zurich residents we’ve met had rather leave the city than witness the “craziness and debauchery” that brings back memories of the 1980s version of their city and tales of crime in a long begotten age.
History of the Zurich Street Parade
Each year, 1 million people fill the streets of Zurich’s old city while 30 floats slowly wind their way down the route.
Comic-Con remains on Monica’s list of must-see events but for now, she’ll have to compromise with the many events that we stumble upon throughout Europe containing a side of cosplay. This means sacrifices, such as, in the case of the Zurich Street Parade, listening to techno music stream from each passing float as it stopped for at least half an hour with an endless stream of music that we prefer to throw into a mix and not hear for an entire day.
The Zurich Street Parade began in 1992 as a spinoff of Berlin’s Love Parade and a celebration of techno music, peace and a drug-free society. It first hit 1 million attendees in 2001 and even this year, with a 70% chance of rain and scheduled one week earlier on the calendar than usual, drew 950,000. In 2010, a crowd rush at Berlin’s Love Parade caused 21 deaths and 500 injuries, tragically ending the festival there and making Zurich’s Street Parade the largest techno celebration in Europe.
Cosplay at the Zurich Street Parade
Below are several of the people we saw during the 2014 Zurich Street Parade.
A traditional flag thrower prepares to entertain the Swiss National Day crowd in Rütli. The flag throwing sport dates back to medieval times when opposing guilds used to compete.
Happy August 1! Sounds a bit strange, I know. August 1 in Switzerland is the equivalent of July 4 in the States but with less fanfare.
How Switzerland began
We decided to enjoy our new country’s founding in the place where it all started – Rütli. This is the Jamestown of Switzerland, where the country first began.
Aug. 1, 1291,three men met in a meadow above Lake Uri and took a vow to help each other and their respective regions guard against the Austrians. This vow led to the creation of a country. Before 1291, what we know today as Switzerland was independent regions with their own governance.
These three men, Walter Fürst from Canton Uri, Werner Stauffacher from Canton Schwyz and Arnold von Melchtal from Canton Unterwalden, are some of the most forgettable men in Swiss history. Unlike our Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry, the Swiss barely recognize their beginning as a country. This may be due to the Swiss overwhelming sense of modesty or one’s stronger affiliation to canton (state) than nation.
In 1891, the Swiss government declared August 1 to be Swiss National Day, and the country has celebrated the holiday ever since.
Celebrating the holiday of Swiss National Day
The national celebration, or Bundesfeier, for the country’s founding is held in that same meadow where the oath was sworn more than 700 years ago. The president of Switzerland (more of an honorary title than a functional one) gives a speech, switching between German, French, Italian and English, and a large picnic is held. Traditional flag throwers and alphorn players provide entertainment with a choir of children from various summer camps, and red and white is seen everywhere.
Traditional alphorn players announce the beginning of the festivities in Rütli. Alphorns have been used to communicate in the mountainous regions of the country since the 1500s.
The whole affair is rather low key with only about 500 people attending. The meadow is only accessible by boat or hiking trail. To attend, we took the train to Brunnen where we picked up a free ticket to the festivities at the local tourism office (as there as been some conservative extremist demonstrations at past events, I’m sure the ticket is for that reason). We had to show our passports and fill out some information with our name and address, and we had to again show our passports to security at the ferry. We then had a 10-minute boat ride on Lake Uri to reach Rütli.
There are some nice hiking trails around the meadow, so we did some walking while we waited for the event to kick off. We saw dignitaries in suits and dresses mulling about, and I was reminded how safe this country is. There were some police on duty, mainly making sure no one sat at the reserved tables. There were just a few security members for all the politicians and ambassadors. If this would have been an event in the U.S., first, we wouldn’t have been able to just pick up a ticket and stroll in. Second, we would have been searched thoroughly. Other than flashing our passports, we passed right through checkpoints. Third and finally, there would have snipers and security all over the place.
At 1:30 p.m. sharp (the Swiss are nothing if not punctual), the alphorn players sounded the alert that the event was starting. After the entertainment portion was completed and all the dignitaries were well into their picnic lunches at the reserved tables, the president gave his speech. As most of it was given in German or French, we missed quite a bit. I was surprised to hear that this was the first national celebration with foreign ambassadors in attendance. We were also able to understand that the president was speaking about the two-part system for high school students who can either choose to continue study at an university or enter an apprenticeship program. We’re almost certain there was a jab made at the United States’ high cost of higher education.
After the president spoke, the picnic continued with many people enjoying the hiking or relaxing in the sun as a cow bell could be heard from the lower pasture. We decide to head back into town and see what’s going on there. Like most small towns Aug. 1, there was a bit of a street fair going on with outdoor food vendors and a stage set up for music acts in front of a large area of picnic tables. After listening to a folk music band, we made our way back to Zug where we were staying for the night.
Fireworks for Swiss National Day
We were told that the city didn’t have an organized firework display, that we could only find that nearby in Zürich. We opted to walk around Lake Zug that evening to see what we can find, and we’re pleasantly surprised to see a bonfire on a platform several yards from the shore. It was close enough to sit on the lake’s edge and feel the warmth but far enough away that there was no chance of a burn.
The bonfire on Lake Zug burns as people set off personal fireworks in the background. The combination of the two fires and water made for an enchanting evening.
After dark and when the bonfire is roaring, who needed a city-hosted display of fireworks when apparently anyone and everyone could and did shoot them off wherever they pleased? We’re not talking puny bottle rockets and Roman candles, either. These were professional grade, and they were going off all around us. People behind us were setting off the sparkler fountains on the sidewalk while to our right were giant bursts of green, purple, yellow and red. It was beautiful and a bit scary knowing none of these displays were supervised.
The fireworks continued well into the night as the bonfire burned down. People toasted their beers and wines, and the evening proved to be a spectacular display of national pride rarely seen in Switzerland.
How do you celebrate a national day?
The Fourth of July has always been a favorite holiday as I love fireworks. Celebrating Swiss National Day, though more low key, was a fun experience that I (hopefully) look forward to getting to do for years to come. What national celebration do you enjoy the most? How do you celebrate it?
A grave of a soldier from Georgia at the American Cemetery in Normandy, France, is decorated with flags and personal mementos in honor of the 70th anniversary of D-Day.
Friday will be my second Independence Day outside of the U.S. Though it’s a bit strange to say “Happy Fourth of July” to someone who blankly stares back at you (the equivalent of me saying “Happy First of August” to an American as Aug. 1 is Switzerland’s National Day) we still find ways to celebrate.
Revisiting D-Day in France
Last month, we celebrated another American milestone in a foreign country. For the 70th anniversary of the Allied invasion, known as D-Day, we visited Normandy, France, and participated in the memorials taking place there on that hallowed ground. From the American Cemetery that is the final resting place for more than 9,000 American military members to the beaches where the troops first landed, activities celebrating the beginning of the liberation of Europe from Nazi rule were underway.
More than 160,000 Allied troops landed on those Normandy beaches June 6, 1944, under heavy fire from Nazi forces. With support from more than 5,000 ships and 13,000 aircraft, the Allies took a foothold in the European theater. The beginning of the end of World War II, though, was bought with more than 9,000 lives lost in a single day of combat.
Understanding D-Day today
A D-Day veteran walks the grounds of the American Cemetery with his two sons. Listening to him greet many visitors and tell his stories was epic.
Walking along Omaha Beach and looking up at the bluffs above where the American Cemetery is, it’s hard to believe the Allied troops could have won that day from such a disadvantaged point and easy to understand how so many military members died. As one soldier who participated in the memorial activities put it, to actually stand at and see from that vantage point is “shocking.”
Through re-enactments, history expert talks and guided tours, the 70th anniversary of D-Day was brought to life for thousands of visitors from around the globe. Being among those visitors was truly a surreal experience, being brought to life when we listened to a D-Day veteran explain the chaos and confusion of that fateful day. “I never wanted to come back here,” he said.
Remembering American sacrifices around the world
A note of thanks for all our veterans written in the sands of Omaha Beach.
This Independence Day we’ll be at an American bar and restaurant, aptly named Stars and Stripes, celebrating with colleagues from Switzerland, India, Hong Kong and Portugal. As we toast to our great country, we’ll remember the sacrifices made by so many that allow us the choice to live the expat life. We’ll be grateful to come from a country with a proud history and no exit visas. We’ll say “Happy Fourth of July” and smile when others give us blank looks as we try to relate how much has gone into and continues to support those four little words.
My dad, Erie, and I on top of the Empire State Building in NYC. The best gift I ever got him was a surprise stay at the Waldorf Astoria in Midtown.
Through moving an entire house in one bound to rescuing breakdowns on I-75 faster than a speeding bullet, my dad and dad-in-law are super men. Though we’re not there to celebrate Father’s Day with them in person, we are certainly thinking of them. Since we can’t reminisce in person, here’s a list of the top travel gifts we’ve given Erie and Larry over the years and some other recommendations for great gadgets to help out your traveling papa.
Travel gifts for Dad
1. 1,000 Places to See Before You Die
In 2006, my dad set out on his second Across America trip. In his RV, he went from coast to coast, exploring places like the Yosemite National Park in California to the Biltmore Estate in North Carolina. As he and my stepmother explored all these iconic American sites, he was able to check them off in his “1,000 Places to See Before You Die” book that my sister and I had given him. My dad is a hard man to impress, but he really enjoyed this book. As we sent the book to him while he was already on the road, he even went back to some places just to make sure he could see the recommended sites.
2. GPS
For Christmas one year, we bought Chris’ parents a GPS. As we are completely and utterly addicted to ours and his parents love their Sunday drives, we thought it would make a great gift. We’re fond of the Garmin series for its ease of use, and it has come in handy quite a few times for his parents. They still like to turn it off, though, and get lost in what they find on a Sunday afternoon.
An external hard drive is a great way to keep documents stored on the go.
3. External Hard Drive
While my dad is constantly on the move, he needed an easier and more secure way to store and access his important documents. An external hard drive was just the item. Now that one terabyte drives are the norm, we recommend the Western Digital My Passport for its reliability and affordability at about $80 per unit.
4. Special Stay
The best gift I ever got my dad was a surprise stay at the Waldorf Astoria in New York City. As he and his dad used to travel to NYC and admire the hotel, they never stayed there. The evening we checked in, I’ve never seen my dad so excited or happy before. It was the best money I’ve ever spent. Find the location your dad wants to see the most and splurge. If you’re an active traveler, use your reward points.
5. Passport Holder
For most men, the less you have to carry, the better. Wallets can be easily pickpocketed and aren’t large enough for all travel documents. A passport holder that can easily be secured around the neck or carried as a small backpack makes travel easier.
Chris and his dad, Larry, pose for a photo at the Fort Worth, Texas, Stockyards. His parents were happy to have their GPS when they made the road trip from Alabama to Dallas to visit him.
6. Camera
Your dad will most likely want to capture all the memories he’s making with your travel gifts, so give him a way to do that. For the basics, try the Panasonic Lumix. At an affordable price, easy-to-use features and high quality photos, this camera is great for snapping candid shots throughout any trip.
Happy Father’s Day to all our worktrotter dads! May your travels be full of wonder.
The Krewe of Hermes rolls for Mardi Gras 2012. With majestic pieces like this Neptune float, Mardi Gras parades are a rolling work of art to admire for the whole family.
“How did you earn those beads? *Wink *Wink”
Ever since Chris and I returned from Mardi Gras a couple of weeks ago, we’ve been giving out strands of beads to anyone we visit. Inevitably, I always get the sly question of how I earned so many beads. With that devilish look in my eye, I coyly reveal my big secret – I put my hands in the air, t-shirt (and this year, coat) fully intact. Literally, that’s all there is to it. No flashing required (unless you want to, and we’re not judging).
The Family-Friendly Mardi Gras
For those who have never been, there is this giant misconception that you can only get beads in New Orleans if you’re some drunk party girl showing off all you’ve got or if you’re a hot guy egging on said drunk party girl to reveal the lady lumps to thousands of complete strangers and video cameras. Since returning, we’ve been told how only crazy sinners attend Mardi Gras, and we’ve been asked how church leaders could ever attend such an event but avoid the debauchery.
All these beads and these spectacular sunglasses from the Krewe of Thoth and absolutely no flashing required. For the family-friendly Mardi Gras areas, check out the parades on St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street.
The truth is, Mardi Gras is so much more than what is portrayed in pop culture. It’s a celebration of tradition. We’ve seen entire families, from toddlers in strollers to grandmas in electric scooters, catching throws, or the items the parade participants throw from the floats, mainly beads. One family even told us how they come out and collect the throws of toys and other goodies for that year’s Christmas gifts. The police also strictly enforce the family areas in the city during Mardi Gras, and you will get ticketed/arrested for flashing outside the zone of pretty much anywhere except Bourbon Street.
My first Mardi Gras in 2012, I had to leave about 400 necklaces of beads in the hotel room because I didn’t have enough space for them in my luggage with all the other beads. This year, we brought back probably 500 necklaces, eight Zulu coconuts and a host of other throws. I’ve never once lifted my shirt in New Orleans.
Even though I recommend you at least walk down Bourbon Street once (that’s all I do, that’s all you need) to witness the full-on lewdness, there are so many other and better activities to take in during the Fat Tuesday celebrations.
1. Parades
From the beginning of the Mardi Gras season (typically in early February but dependent upon the Lunar calendar) to the day before Ash Wednesday, parades in and around the city are happening almost every day. Krewes, or social organizations, put on elaborate pageantry to ride through uptown, downtown, French Quarter and outlying area routes. You can download various apps to keep up with parade schedules. My top three parade recommendations are the Krewes of Zulu (gives out the most throws, especially the coveted hand-decorated coconuts), Muses (all-female Krewe known for its famous footwear throws) and Bacchus (its medallions are collector’s items and the Krewe always sports a celebrity for its monarch).
2. Mardi Gras Indians
Follow the Zulu parade on Mardi Gras day to its end at the underpass on Claiborne Avenue and wait to be even further wowed. As a nod to Native Indians, these New Orleans tribes hand-stitch their regalia to mask only three times a year: Mardi Grad day, Super Sunday and St. Joseph’s Night. The battles of the Mardi Gras Indians are some of the “prettiest” sights of Mardi Gras. Only worn once a season, the regalia of beads, gems and feathers adorn the Big Chief, Wild Man, Spy Boy, Flag Boy and now even the Big Queens as tribes face-off on the streets mainly in the Tremé neighborhood.
3. Mardi Gras Balls
If you’re fortunate enough to receive an invitation to an exclusive Krewe ball, be sure to save the invitation as some go for works of art alone. Each Krewe has its own soiree, usually the evening after its parade. These elegant affairs are the social events of the year. Think Old South debutante balls, where real-life debutantes are introduced to society. We were lucky enough to catch the grand entrance of the King and Queen of Carnival into the ball where the Courts of the Krewe of Rex and the Mistick Krewe of Comus were meeting, the highlight of Mardi Gras royalty.
Costumes during Mardi Gras stretch across the spectrum, and the annual Mardi Gras costume contest is a spectacle to behold.
4. Costumes
As I love Halloween for the time of year you can dress up as anything or anyone else you want to be, I adore Mardi Gras for the same reason. Everywhere you look, and especially on Mardi Gras day, you can find the magical, mystical, funny, satirical, cute, ugly, scary, inspiring and beautiful costumes born of creative imaginations of all people.
5. Ste. Anne’s Memorial Ceremony
If you would like to honor a loved one passed, ashes or other mementos can be spread out upon the waters of the Mississippi River as the Krewe of Ste. Anne dips and waves its ribbon-covered hula hoops over the crowd, baptizing them in the muddy water. Started in the 1980s to honor AIDS victims, the ceremony follows the end of the Krewe of Rex parade on Mardi Gras day to the river bank. I have already provided for this in my final wishes to Chris.
What is Mardi Gras?
More than screaming girls flashing for beads, more than drunk guys getting into fights, more than Hand Grenades drinks, Mardi Gras is a New Orleans tradition dating back to before the inception of the city. It’s a celebration open to all, no matter your preference of bead obtainment. As one friend and a member of the Krewe of Eve was quoted, Mardi Gras is more than a “bucket list thing.”
Chris and I did water calligraphy at the end of our ghost tour. Our guides taught us how to draw scary words, like this symbol for ghost.
“You can feel the temperature in this area of the park drop right here,” said Daniel Newman, managing director of Newman Tours, as he circled his largest tour group to date under the shadow of a former state-run hotel. “This is the creepiest stop on the tour for me,” he continues. “Three times I’ve had people on this tour capture an image of the ghost girl on their cameras.”
Halloween in China
Halloween is my absolute favorite holiday, and I love a good and spooky (not gory) fright. With a rich history in merciless rulers, unscrupulous gangsters and supernatural worship, China makes an impressive backdrop for the holiday. Though not celebrated among ethnic Chinese in the typical fashion, Halloween is a time to remember past loved ones. Families invite those gone before to dinner where a place of honor with food and drink are set out on the table for the departed family member. The family member is then implored to put in a good word with the gods for those still living. In August, the ghost festival is dedicated to the remembrance and honor of departed loved ones. Unlike last year’s Halloween in São Paulo, Halloween in Shanghai is a big deal. Though it’s not traditionally recognized, as one Shanghai businessman put it, “in Shanghai, they don’t need an excuse to party. If anyone in the world is celebrating something, they join in here. This week it’s Halloween; next week it will be something else.” We’ve seen ads for zombie pub crawls, a Disney villain costume party, a Disney trashed-out princess costume party, and all sorts of other Halloween activities. Just one more reason to love this crazy international city.
Chinese ghost stories
One of our tour guides, Jack Daliday, explains some Buddhist concepts about Jing’an Temple. The missile-looking items in his backpack are the paint brushes for water calligraphy.
What better way to celebrate Halloween than with a ghost tour of our new city? I’ve dragged Chris on ghost tours in Boston, Baltimore, New Orleans, Savannah, Prague, Edinburgh and more. Always the believer v. skeptic couple of the group, I’m determined to make a believer out of him yet. Shanghai was our first ghost tour in Asia, and it did not disappoint. Newman and Jack Daliday, both from London but with extensive studies in China, awed the group with background information on sites around the city while using props and iPad imagery to bring the stories to life. We especially liked Newman’s vocal impersonations as that certainly kept us guessing. As an added bonus, we also learned some Chinese calligraphy. At the end of the tour, Newman and Daliday used water brushes to teach the group the Chinese characters for scary words like kill, ghost and usurper, reportedly written by a literary figure in the 1400s in his own blood as he died from an execution of being chopped in two. In celebration of my favorite holiday, and to wish all our worktrotters a Happy Halloween, here are my top-pick Chinese ghost stories from Newman Tours’ Shanghai Ghost Tour.
The face of the clumsy waitress has been reported in the window of this abandoned hotel. Maybe she is waiting to be let out of her holding place.
1. The clumsy waitress A decrepit and charred building stands tall and foreboding overlooking a park. Newman warns us before he begins the story that this ghost has been seen on the tour before. He points up to the sole window visible through the trees. “There, that’s where she only appears through the lens of a camera,” he explains. The ghost girl with the burned skin has reportedly been captured in photos staring out of the room she burned to death in. In the 1980s, the building was a grand state-run hotel. One day during the lunch service at the hotel’s restaurant, a young girl waiting tables trips and spills wine on a customer. Enraged by her clumsiness, the manager grabs her by the ear and hauls her upstairs to the second floor. As punishment, he locks her in the staff room, intending to return later to let her out. A fire breaks out a few hour later, though, and in the chaos of getting out of the building, the waitress is forgotten until it’s too late. Today, the building is a shell of its former self, and the lone window, now surrounded by charred burn marks, opens onto a park where dance groups practice in the evening. As you walk along the path through the park, you can feel a distinguishable drop in temperature as you pass beneath the window. Photos of the windows have revealed a shadowy figure of a woman with a burned face. Restoration workers refuse to enter the room. Is the clumsy waitress still waiting to be let out?
Could these underwater flower pots contain the remains of an entire family? For those who believe in shui gui, they certainly may.
2. A watery family grave A seemingly peaceful pond provides a nice scene for walkers and joggers in Jing’an Park. Not so, according to Newman, as those very walkers and joggers could be pulled in to a watery death at any moment. He points to a nearby clutch of reeds. “This is a good spot for a shui gui to grab you and pull you under,” he explains. A shui gui is a ghost that lives in the body of water he drowned in, and the only way he can pass on is to replace his soul with another’s in the water. There once was a nasty abbot of Jing’an Temple that dealt in illegal money laundering and especially liked the ladies. One day he sees the most beautiful young girl, and he insists on having her. When she rebukes his flattery and bribes, he threatens to commit zhū lián jiǔ zú, an ancient form of punishment that kills nine generations of a person’s family before the person is killed. When the young girl still refuses his advances, he rounds up every living member of her family he can find and brings them to the pond. To the horror of the girl, he drowns them all in front of her before she is also murdered. It is believed in Chinese culture that ghosts can only walk in straight lines. To reduce the ability of the shui gui to pull an unsuspecting passerby into the water, today a zigzag boardwalk runs across the surface of the pond. Potted plants underneath the surface sprout tall bamboo trees. As bodies don’t stay underwater for long, it is believed the young girl’s family members were cut into pieces and placed in those very pots. Are their spirits in the trees now growing from those pots? Or are they beneath the surface waiting to snatch their replacements?
The Paramount was the premier club for Shanghai’s elite in its heyday. Today, the ghost of a former dancer is said to perform after hours.
3. The taxi dancer The art deco sign for The Paramount lights up the street as the landmark creates an impressive photo op. I’m watching Chris take the photo as I see Daliday slip a gun ever so quickly out of his pocket. “He sneaked into her room, and bang bang shot her right in the chest,” he exclaims as he startles the German man he pulled the trigger of the cap gun on. Workers have reported music playing long after closing time. In the 1930s, The Paramount was the club of choice for the shakers of Shanghai and the gangsters that ran the city. Known for good liquor, the taxi dancers were what really brought the gentlemen in. Like a taxi cab, when a cool cat wanted to dance with one of the ladies, she flipped a meteor on and you danced (or maybe even something a little more) for a by-minute rate. During this era, due to the national unrest between the two nations and invasion of China, Japanese officials were powerful but not well liked by the locals. A Japanese soldier spotted a particularly attractive taxi dancer one night at The Paramount. She refused to dance with anyone of Japanese origin, no matter the rate. After becoming hostile, the soldier was escorted out of the club. Still feeling offended and with liquid courage running through his veins, the soldier decided he would sneak back into The Paramount that night to exact his revenge. As the taxi dancer slept in her quarters, the soldier put a pistol to her chest and fired. As the tables have turned and The Paramount is now a discrete gigolo club for wealthy women, it is reported that the taxi dancer still performs nightly. After closing hours, phantom music has been reported throughout the building and a silhouette of a woman can be seen gliding across the dance floor in the upper levels. Is the taxi dancer waiting for her last dance or is some rich lady getting special after-hours treatment? Happy Halloween! Have some ghost stories of your own? Share them in the comments. -MonicaDisclosure: We highly recommend Newman Tours for its Shanghai Ghost Tour, and we even have plans to take the company’s other ghost tour in Beijing during our next visit. We were provided with one free admission to the Shanghai Ghost Tour for mentioning Newman Tours in this blog post. Prices for the company’s many tours are available at its website at www.newmantours.com, and there are discounted rates for students and children.
The Penglai Lu Market is one of the first and currently the largest open-air market in Shanghai. These markets are becoming rarer as the Chinese government crack down on health codes and are moving them inside.
Before coming to China, I knew there would be some different items on the menu. I knew that the Chinese food I had in the States was a bastardized version of the real stuff. As I wasn’t a huge fan of that version anyways, I wasn’t expecting to find myself in a cultural cuisine heaven here in China. Further admitting to my lack of the palate needed for Asian cuisine, I foolishly also believed that a fortune cookie was authentically Chinese until I recently attended a dinner at a restaurant here specializing in American-bastardized Chinese food, appropriately named “Fortune Cookie.”
What I wasn’t prepared for was the exoticism that would be a typical trip to the market here. I have come to love open-air markets since we made our first international move a year ago. The brightness of fresh produce, the mouthwatering aromas from the grills, and the lively calls from the vendors urging you to stop and look at their selections, it’s always an incredible experience. From the feiras of Brazil to the orderly market day in a European town to the nostalgia of an American farmer’s market, these open-air grocers are a healthy and vibrant shopping experience.
What you’ll see, smell, hear and (possibly) taste in a Chinese wet market
Appropriately named a wet market for the ability to pour out containers of fish and water, fresh fish still flapping can be found throughout the market.
A wet market is the open-air market where you can buy produce, meats, spices, eggs and other groceries. It is so called a wet market because the vendors are consistently washing down the vegetables or pouring fish out of containers and the water flows down the street. There are air-conditioned super markets here, such as the French CarreFour, and I have even found Kate & Kimi, an online community supplying deliverable groceries. The wet market, though, is the authentic Chinese grocery shopping experience.
Janny Chyn with Shanghai Pathways provided lots of background information on wet markets during the tour. A native of Shanghai, she is a wealth of information.
Upon arriving here in Shanghai, I immediately sought out expatriate organizations that had proven to be lifesavers in our other destinations. With some research, I joined the Shanghai Expatriate Association. Like the São Paulo International Newcomers Club, the organization offers social and cultural outings to teach foreigners about the Chinese and Shanghai culture. I recently booked a tour of a Chinese wet market through SEA. Our tour was led by Janny Chyn of Shanghai Pathways, a tour agency that specializes in tours of unique and hidden areas of Shanghai. Janny provided a very informational tour of Penglai Lu Market, one of the first and currently the largest wet market in the city.
Breads and noodles
Some say Marco Polo brought pasta back to Italy from China, but that’s a well-debated subject. One thing is for sure, noodles are a main staple in the Chinese diet.
We started by venturing out onto the first long street of vendors. The first thing you notice is the crowd. The street is narrow, and there are hundreds of people dodging motor bikes and men with carts ringing a bell to signify they are collecting plastic containers as the recycling system isn’t that advanced here.
At the top of the street, a vendor was making Chinese pancakes on a griddle. This flat bread is spread with honey and rolled up for easy take-away. Our next stop was at a vendor selling heaps of different noodles. According to Janny, the Chinese, not the Italians, actually are to be credited with the founding of pasta. Marco Polo took noodles home to Italy after one of his expeditions to China, and the Italians created pasta based upon these noodles. It seems, though, that there is quite a bit of debate on this topic.
Dairy and eggs
If you can get past the black-jellied inside, Century Eggs are said to be quite tasty. Enjoy!
As we moved further down the hustling street, we stopped at a great display of eggs. There were white ones, brown ones, speckled ones and oddly blue ones. Known as Century Eggs, these blue ones are placed in the ground to ferment for months instead of years. The whites and yolks become a black jelly inside and are eaten as one would eat a hard-boiled egg. If you can get past the look, texture and smell, I’m told that are quite good. As a rather picky eater, I wasn’t able to get past the first three senses.
Though it is largely believed milk is not popular in China, Janny said this is not the case. Chinese rather enjoy their milk if not the cheese. Tofu is actually a replacement for most things cheese here. Janny told the story of how milk came to the country in the 1800s. An American businessman noticed there was a lack of good milk in China. Not part of the traditional diet, there wasn’t a need for such a source. He set out on a Public Relations campaign to introduce and develop a strong market for milk in the country, and it has been booming ever since. Most of the milk is imported, but there has been some recent scares in production.
Vegetables, beans, spices and nuts
There is a ton of fresh produce in the wet market. This hidden mushroom is a two-for-one.
We moved on to the first stall of nuts, beans and spices. Janny proceeded to explain that in Chinese culture, it is believed that the food matches the body parts it resembles. For example, red beans are believed to be beneficial for the blood, walnuts are good for for the brain, and kidney beans support the kidneys. I found it very interesting that the Chinese believe purple food, like eggplant, is a good preventative for cancer. Maybe it is no surprise, then, that the American Cancer Society uses a purple ribbon to raise awareness about cancer.
Next door was a vegetable stand with a variety of produce. Especially interesting were the mushrooms, which came from all over the country. One in particular is called the hidden mushroom. It’s as if you can get a two-for-one. Inside the first mushroom a second mushroom grows.
As most homes don’t have the space and food is not doused in preservatives here, most Chinese go to the wet market daily as they only buy a one-day supply at a time. Some haggling does take place at the wet markets, but the price is plainly posted on many items. At the low costs (I bought two bunches of asparagus for the equivalent of less than $1), it seems a bit stingy to even attempt to get a lower price.
Meat
In Chinese culture, freshness is key, and animals need to be viewed alive to ensure good quality. These poor creatures are awaiting the butcher’s block.
As we made the turn onto the next street, I saw them and my heart sank. Inside cramped cages were ducks, chickens and pigeons. Beside them were about 20 frogs in a large bowl. Every now and then, a frog would try to jump out only to be thwarted by the mesh covering over the bowl. A tank of slithering eels came next with the bodies squirming up through the mesh. Known as a delicacy in Shanghai, the eels were pushed back down into the tank by the vendor or snatched out to be skinned. A specialty for the city, hairy crabs pinched out of from their steel cages hoping to catch a vendor’s finger as he snatched them out to beat them with a hammer. All sorts of fish floundered in tubs of shallow water.
The exoticism of seeing your meat alive and jumping was a bit much to take. If I eat meat, it’s mainly chicken, and I have no desire to see what it looked like before it was slaughtered or for it to resemble itself in anyway once it’s on my plate. Here in China, however, that is opposite of what is normal. The Chinese believe that it is best to buy meat alive and butchered in full view. This way, you can see if the animal is healthy and ensure you are receiving the freshest cut. It’s also very typical to serve meat in its original form. Plenty of restaurants here serve the chicken with its head and feet (it’s a popular belief that chicken feet are good for a woman’s complexion) still attached or a fish with its eyes still staring at you. Bones are also left in many animals as the Chinese believe the best meat is located nearest the bone.
Moon cakes are served throughout the Moon Festival, which just took place here last week. The cakes have a meat center and are made of flaky pastry layers.
Holiday foods
There are many festivals on the Chinese calendar, and each comes with a special food. There is sticky sweet rice for the Dragon Festival, and, most recently, moon cakes for the Moon Festival. These special treats are a big hit in the wet market.
With eight distinct food regions in China, the country has a well-versed menu for any palate. To make these unique dishes, wet markets are the traditional means to buy the freshest ingredients. Though a bit of an attack on the Western senses, I would certainly recommend a stroll through these open-air smorgasbords of sights, sounds and smells.
What has been your strangest grocery shopping experience?
For the past two weekends, Christopher and I have seen some of the ugliest and scariest masks; been confetti-bombed a dozen times; threw back shots of Schnapps as if we were in college again; given candy to kids in every imaginable costume like it was Halloween; and danced Gangnam Style in the streets.
A float during the Chur Fasnacht parade makes a jab about the recent controversy over the Swiss government buying new military jets. The sign reads “To hell with the Gripen,” which is the type of plane the Swiss are purchasing from Sweden.
Who knew, but Switzerland celebrates Carnival! Here, it’s called Fasnacht, and each town has its own celebration. The first weekend, we celebrated in Chur. Everyone here was dressed in costume for the occasion, from the young to the old. We attended the afternoon parade where local groups play in full bands and pull floats, typically with a political jab. These groups are comparable to the krewes of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras. Lots of candy, fruit and some toys are thrown to the spectators, but whereas Mardi Gras is known for beads, Fasnacht is known for confetti. It’s thrown from the floats, and some of the group members come into the crowd to pour bags of it on spectators. By the end of the parade, the street isn’t even visible for the confetti.
A parade participant at the Basil Fasnacht Parade prepares to confetti bomb a member of the crowd.
We attended our second Fasnacht celebration in Basel, which has the only Protestant Carnival in the world. Costumes were mainly worn by the children here, but it wasn’t any less of a party atmosphere. Confetti continued to be abundant and it seemed more parade participants offered shots or beer to spectators. The main difference between Chur and Basel seemed to be the parade participant’s costumes. Whereas in Chur most groups had elaborate face paintings, Basel members had intricate masks.
Each town sells its own Fasnacht pin with proceeds going to the groups to buy the masks, costumes, musical equipment, and other festival-related costs. If you’re wearing the pin, the better your odds at getting goodies from the parade participants instead of confetti-bombed.
After the parades, the bands make their ways throughout the evening into local restaurants to play inside for diners. There are also small comedy groups that perform inside, usually taking jabs at politicians, government and other organized institutions.
A firefighter carries a burning torch during the Chienbäse, a Fasnacht tradition in Liestal since the Middle Ages.
Outside of Basel in Liestal is the Chienbäse, a night parade that has been continuous since the Middle Ages. Firefighters carry large torches through the streets and push carts carrying burning fires with flames 12 feet into the air. If you can stand the smoke, it’s a sight to behold. The next morning at 4, we attended Morgenstreich, the world-famous parade of lanterns in the main city of Basel. All of the lights in town are turned out, and the groups march playing only piccolo flutes and drums. The participants carry lanterns on their heads while the floats are lighted from inside. Unlike the other parades, this one has no set route. Millions of people are just wandering among the darkened streets following the light and music.
Participants carry lanterns on their heads during the world-famous Morgenstreich in Basel where all the city lights go out for the early-morning parade.
After this early-morning parade, the Couchsurfers we stayed with prepared us a traditional Fasnacht breakfast of Mehlsuppe, a brown flour soup, and Zwiebelwähe, a cheese and onion quiche. We were told traditionally you would wash this all down with beer, but by that point, we had reached our limit.
Fasnacht is the one time of year that the Swiss are allowed to cut loose and enjoy themselves. All the rules the country is known so well for are thrown out the window. We had a wonderful, if not exhausting, time during Fasnacht, and we look forward to celebrating more holidays here. We’ve been told Easter is a pretty big deal, too.
